Condor in Flight

Written by Guest Writers, Susan and Tom, in Cafayate for a visit of 9 days and are now enjoying life back on the Limerick! Thank you for your contribution!



During our nine-day stay in Cafayate in July 2009, we hiked several of the canyons and rivers in the area, always with binoculars in hand. We were delighted to see condors on three different occasions. As we hiked up the mostly dry bed of the Rio Colorado, we spotted the first group. Three adult male condors soared overhead, unmistakable, with their enormous 9-10 foot wingspan, dark black bodies with white wing patches, and bright white collar. They drifted on the thermals created by the rocky canyon above us, never flapping their wings during the thirty minutes we watched. The next day we went to the ruins at Quilmes and hiked the high trail that loops around the site. As we climbed to the overlook on the right, just above the ancient village (our original destination), we realized that the trail continued up and up and up, and decided to see where it went. Always scanning the skies, we spotted a group of condors soaring, three adults and two juveniles. The juveniles were almost as big as the adults, but a gray-brown color, with no white collar. Another day we hiked up the riverbed of the Rio Chuscha, where once again we saw condors soaring above the rocky canyon walls. These birds fly up to 100 miles each day in search of carrion, usually large animals like cattle, llamas, or, sheep. Later in the week we also hiked the Rio Yacochuya, where once again we saw a half dozen condors soaring. We had first seen condors in the Colca Canyon of Peru, where we saw twenty at a time, so close to us that we could feel the wind beneath their wings. It was a magical experience. Since then we have seen them in Patagonia, in both Chile and Argentina, as far south as Tierra del Fuego. Condors range from top to bottom of the South American continent, usually high in the Andes, roosting at 10,000-16,000 feet, but ranging down into the high desert of northwest Argentina where we saw them near Cafayate. If you aren't into hiking up these canyons, you can also see them as you drive through Quebrada de Cafayate, but you'll have to get out of the car and watch for them soaring high overhead. Without binoculars you won't see the defining characteristics of the birds, the white collar and wing patches, but even with the naked eye you should be able to appreciate their magnificent size and graceful flight pattern.